Adventures come in different guises, and this one came camouflaged as a holiday with some excitement sandwiched between. Instead we had an expedition of momentous proportions.  Namibia is a vast country measuring close to 824 ,292 sq km, to put that into context, it is approximately 238% bigger than the UK, with a  population of slightly more than 2.5 million.  This former German colony is situated northwest of South Africa and the Orange River forms the border between the two.  Further north is the border to Angola and to the east Botswana.

This large and sparsely populated country is the perfect setting for a full blown adventure, it is a land with incredibly diverse landscapes, ranging from vast and dwarfing dunes to subtropical vegetation, oil slick snaking rivers, bald granite rocks dramatically tumbled into  an otherwise flat landscape.  There is nothing plain or bland about this country, everything is dramatic, intense and incredible and that includes the fauna and flora.  This is one of our favourite places to explore, so when the  borders opened between our countries, it didn’t take much time or incentive to get planning for our “Namibia Untamed” expedition.

The plan was to complete, unfinished business.  In 2018 we had set out to navigate our way through the 7 rivers,  the Kunene, Khumib, Hoarusib, Hoanib, Huab, Abu Huab, Ugab all by land yacht, but unfortunately floods had laid waste to those plans. This time we were going to get it right, that is, if the weather gods played along.

Two Covid PCR tests later, a fully laden vehicle armed with a rooftop tent, a water tank an extra fuel tank, tons of dried goods, camera equipment, vehicle recovery gear, bird books, a moka pot, coffee, a couple of g+t’s,  binocs, sun hats, kikois and hammocks, and we were ready to hit the road.

The plan was to spend 4 weeks in Namibia, exploring, savouring and capturing beautiful images, as a result of Covid and the complete lack of tourists we had the freedom to move freely without being bound by bookings, instead we travelled to a new rhythm, one which allowed us to stay or move on as the mood grabbed us.

From Cape Town we headed straight to Noordoewer, the border, and once we had finished all the border formalities, which were remarkably simple, we made our way to Amanzi river camp in Namibia, time to relax, shake the city loose and move into the groove.  The plan was to make our way up North, to the Kunene river  as quickly as possible and then spend our time slowly meandering down the river beds.  The roads of Namibia are largely long and straight and very narrow with little or no margin, so breaking up the journey is essential.  Bagatelle Kalahari game ranch on the edge of the southern Kalahari was just the perfect place to overnight. Red dunes, dramatic sunsets and a braai to end a long drive.

From here we high tailed it  north to Okonjima Nature Reserve, which lies half way between Windhoek the capital of Namibia and Etosha national park.  A very special place indeed, 4 beautiful private campsites situated at the foot of the Omboroko mountains. The perfect place to hike, swim, go on a game walk or just relax with a pair of binoculars and a bird book.

From here it was essentially one more big push to get to Etosha and then we could slow the pace down, the town of Otjiwarongo provided an excellent opportunity to restock on fresh fruit, vegetables and meat before arriving late afternoon, at Onguma safari camps, situated on the eastern border of Etosha national park, a hop and a skip away from the Namutoni gate. The Leadwood campsite is located in the  34 000 hectares of private reserve, and each of the 6 sites have their own private shower/toilet and wash up area.  For us, this is an absolute firm favourite, the beauty of the reserve, the accessibility of the lodge for a sundowner, a dip in the pool, the generous private campsites under large established trees and the close proximity to Etosha. We had four days here, each day the rhythm was similar, early to rise, game drives in Etosha National park, spending the day scanning the bush, watering holes and skies for wildlife.  We were lucky to see a Cheetah mother and her 2 cubs on our way out of Onguma and a mating lion pair. White and black Rhino, Giraffe, Impala, zebra, Wildebeest, Oryx, elephant, leopard and literally 100’s of different bird species.

All in all it we had spent 6 days in and around Etosha before we decided that it was time to start our river meanders.  From here we headed north to Ruacana, a quick diesel stop before driving to Kunene River Lodge.  Tar roads give way to a dirt track, that runs parallel to the Kunene river, it’s strange to think that just across the way is Angola, a whole new country.  This region is part of Kaokoland, home of the indigenous Himba people, largely semi-nomadic, pastoralists.  One can be forgiven in thinking that time has stopped here, they largely live in a circular hamlet of huts made from mopane wood, clay and animal dung, the people of this area live life, in pretty much the same manner that they have for generations before. The women are beautifully adorned in hand crafted jewellery,  simply dressed in a skirt of animal skin and their skins coated in a combination of butter fat and ochre, which beyond its aesthetic appeal, acts as protection from the sun and dehydration. When they aren’t farming millet and maize, cattle and goat are tended, water and firewood collected.  It is a simpler and harder life than the one we are used to.  Children run excitedly next to the car as we drive by slowly and shout for sweeties, this time we brought strawberry lollipops and making friends was easy, chattering children and broken conversation breaking the journey into lovely encounters.

The three nights at Kunene river lodge, an oasis of large indigenous ficus trees, incredible birdlife, blue swimming pool, marauding monkeys and monitor lizards is just the cool respite needed in the 42 degrees celsius. The track from Kunene river lodge to Epupa Fall is a mere 161 km’s but considering the gravel road and knowing how often we stop to photograph we know this is a full days trek.

Epupa, meaning “falling waters” in Herero, is where the Kunene river, one of Namibia’s five perennial rivers, plummets down into a 40 metre deep gorge.  We have only ever seen it, when the river has been in flood and it is nothing short of dramatic, an absolute spectacle framed by Makalani palms, Ficus trees and Baobabs.  It is after all not every day that you see a giant Baobab in the middle of a series of waterfalls. Epupa itself is tiny, blink and you’ve missed it, however it is a good place to overnight, to watch the sun set, hear the roar of the falls and enjoy an ice cold gin and tonic while having the front seats to this spectacle.

From Epupa to Okongwati the road varies between sections that are either  graded or ungraded, miles of mopane trees, Himba settlements, large baobabs and the occasional broken down bakkie.  Okongwati, a tiny little blimp of a town is all a hustle and a bustle with a local police station a series of small shops selling the basics, like potatoes, onions, Nik Naks, washing powder and maize.  It is also famous for it’s “no panty” bar, which always amuses us to no end, but the main reason that we stop here, is that this is your last chance to buy diesel from the locals, N$ 600 will get you 25 litres. From here we are heading towards the Van Zyl’s pass community camp, the road divides into two 4wd tracks that appear and dissapear amongst the Mopane trees and river bed crossings, one minute the track is good, the next you negotiating loose rocks and steep sections and moving at the pace of a snail on a particularly good day. Last time we were here we found the most incredible place to wild camp, but the sun is starting to dip and we still hadn’t found our elusive spot, instead we choose a spot on a rise on the side of the track and decide that this would be as good as any, with the bonus of a beautiful sunrise.  The tent is quickly erected, a fire place is made and the fire is lit, we have named the camp, Scorpion camp, grateful that I have gloves on to move the rocks for the fireplace.  The silence is always a reminder just how far you have left your regular life behind, and the velvety skies unfold to reveal the million star sky. It is an amazing feeling, to feel so alone and insignificant.

 

The next morning’s sunrise doesn’t disappoint and a bowl of pap and a good cup of coffee and we are one step closer to Van Zyl’s pass. It’s slow going and eventually I get out the car, dressed in a kikoi, t-shirt a pair of trainers, a wide brimmed hat and sunglasses and before I realise it I have overtaken our car and I’m marching purposefully down the pitted and rutted track, there are hilarious moments, when the car is far behind and I encounter a shepherd or to, completely flummoxed by this crazy lady walking by herself in the middle of nowhere.  Every now and then the static of our walkie talkies breaking through with Christoph trying to find exactly where I am.  We reached the community campsite that afternoon and finally begin to understand the impact that Covid 19 has had on tourism, there is nobody around, the camp is deserted, the infrastructure in disarray, it’s a sad sight indeed.  We continue down the riverbed until we find an ancient gnarled baobab, and decide that this is the place to make camp.  It is now day 3 without a shower and yes we have wet wipes but hell man, I’m looking forward to a shower.

It’s D-Day and we left our wild camp,  heading for the infamous Van Zyl’s Pass, situated in the North western corner of Kaokoland, from the top of the pass to the bottom is about 10km’s and if you think that this will take you a few hours, think again.  The pass was originally built by Ben Van Zyl and his team of twenty men,  it took them 4 months to complete the road, and if you ask me, I still feel they haven’t finished it.  There are hardly words to describe the route.  We had done our homework, we had read up about the pass, chatted to people, watched YouTube videos and all I can say is that none of it can prepare you for the route. The first part of the track is relatively easy with you slowly creeping higher and higher until you reach the view site of the Marienfluss, incredibly beautiful, breath taking.  Then we walked the first section of the pass to get an idea of exactly what we would be letting ourselves in for, flipping hell….road….what road….and why are there 2 cars lying down further down the valley over the edge of the precipice.  Well there was no going back, or for that matter was there any going forward? We discussed the proposed route, built up sections of the road, set up the fire extinguisher, photographic points and switched the walkie talkies on.  Slowly but surely Christoph inched over the rocks and down the pass, wheels lifting, axles twisting in time to my guts, wild gesticulations and urgent voice messages when I felt he was too close to the edge. I was shaking and filled with trepidation and in contrast he looked cool and collected.  It was a slow process, many technical sections that required a cool and calm response and by early afternoon we were down and done, I cannot begin to explain the relief at having made it, it was insane.  In hindsight I do think that it was not the wisest decision to do this pass on our own and would strongly advise that one should rather travel with at least another car.  But we DID it!!!!!

Adrenalin finally gave way to tiredness and an apparent lack of showering as we made the last push across the dry plains to Marble community camp, a ghost of it’s former self.  There is something quite disconcerting about returning to a place that had been abuzz previously and now appeared, completely deserted.  After checking that the showers worked we decided to spend the night, happy to feel safe and clean and entirely ready for a generous gin and tonic.  It was so good to sit and reflect about the day, the challenges, our respective experiences of the pass and how sad it was to see a thriving camp so empty and devoid of life.  Some scuffling in the river bed parallel to the site caught our attention, presuming it was a hyena we were instead relieved to see the sight of sad looking dog, hoping for a scrap.  One left over lamb chop and we had a new friend for life and a diligent nightwatchman.  We are beginning to see more signs of the impact of Covid 19 on these communities, who had previously relied heavily on tourism as a source of income, the guest register is a stark reminder, as I count a total of 30 guests including ourselves since the beginning of the year. It was to become more apparent as we left the camp and headed for the Hoarisib river and Puros our next camp.

The Himba people in this area have been hit doubly hard, no tourism and a serious drought has made life very tough and it’s not easy to ignore just how thin people are, it was time to share out the parcels of mealie meal and sugar, it is so humbling and heart rending to receive the gratitude for such simple gifts.

Traveling south to the Hoarisib river the landscapes become dramatic and sculptural, with the journey interspersed with gasps of amazement and hundreds of photographic stops, the tonal values of the ground, the mountains and random rocks are mind-blowingly beautiful.  Our track slopes down until we finally meet up with the riverbed, we have been warned that there has been a fair amount of localised rain, and to take care not to get stuck in the riverbeds.  Following a basic track on the gps, we weave our way from one dry river bank to another.  Sometimes easier said than done, with options slowly running out.  By early afternoon we reach an oxbow in the river and our luck runs out, we haven’t walked a crossing that looked deceptively easy…….and we are well and truly stuck half way across the slow flowing stream. The front wheels just made it to the firmer section whilst the back wheels are bogged down to the axle, not unlike a fat beetle making its way across a saucer of jam. Flashbacks of our 2018 expedition where we spent the good part of 24 hours trying to extricate ourselves.  After the initial horror of being well and truly stuck and the realisation that there would be no help, we formulate a plan of action, we have a good 2-2.5 hours before the sun sets, enough time to get ourselves out and on to higher ground.  The clouds seem to be moving faster and a large grey bank has moved across the sky, no time to waste.

The plan was simple, have a good look around to scour the ground for fresh spoor of potential predators, get the high lift jack out, lift each wheel out and pack as many river stones under each wheel as we can squeeze in.  It’s only when I start collecting the river stones on the embankment where we have come from that it becomes apparent at just how misleading this surface is, with one step you move from firm river sand to sinking knee deep in a stinky, muddy, marsh-like ground.  Christoph has kicked into overdrive with the high lift jack proving to be temperamental and physically taxing, nobody would have thought that the bamboo chopping board from the crazy R10 store could prove to be so invaluable as   a base plate for the jack.  An hour later we make an attempt to drive out the river bed only to be thwarted by the mud as the car tried to inch forward, the wind has picked up and we now are experiencing a wind storm, time to regroup and to try and keep the morale up.

Plan B, to try and rid the back of the car, of as much weight as possible, which involved removing the metal chest from the roof, the spare tyre, all the luggage in the back and whatever else we could offload. Repeat the high lift jack performance and place the recovery tracks under each wheel, a series of frustrations and a huge amount of physical effort and a large amount of wrestling with the jack and we are ready to try again.  The sun has set and we are close to our wits end, hungry and tired.  Christoph gets behind the wheel and I video what we hope will be our crawl to freedom, the car moves slowly forward and takes, the mud vacuum is broken and the car breaks free as Christoph hurtles up the bank to safety….whoops of joy and relief all round.  It’s time to pack up all the abandoned gear and find refuge on the highest point for the night. Exhaustedly we enjoyed the biggest bonfire ever as we chatted about our ordeal and proposals for the day ahead, but first a good nights rest.

Things always look better in the morning and this was no exception, it was simple we needed to decide to either push on through the river bed,  and risk getting stuck again, or track back and take the long detour. Not an easy choice, we chose to go back, albeit not the exact same way.  We drove and walked sections of the riverbed until we finally made our way back to our original track and left the valley behind.

The journey along the narrow rocky track to Puros is a visual feast, the rocks and rockfaces are tones of ochre, the landscapes are largely open with the occasional spectre of a tree, white bark and thin wispy leaves.  The ground littered with what looks like perfectly arranged rocks, crystals and other treasures.  Slowly we thread our way alongside the thin strip of green that makes up the Hoarusib riverbed and the tonal values change, reds replaced by white, the landscape undulates regularly over hillocks and dunes offering a perfect view of the river and an opportunity to spot the elusive desert elephant.  Makalali palms providing shade and food seem almost otherworldly out here.

The Puros conservancy borders the Skeleton Coast Park in Namibia’s Kunene region and the campsite  is situated on the banks of the ephemeral Hoarusib river, for most of the year, this river is a largely dry and dusty, but for the years when there has been generous summer rainfalls, it dramatically changes and makes large parts of this area impassable.  If you are lucky you might catch a glimpse of the elusive grey giants, the Desert elephants, who silently roam this area from the Ugab river .  If you are lucky you might even spot them around the campsite as they eagerly seek out Acacia tree seed pods and leaves.

The name Puros originates from the Otjiherero word “omburo” meaning underground water, this area is filled with artesian springs and one of the main attractions for the elephants as they dig deeply into the riverbed in search of fresh water.  This area is also frequented by giraffe, Oryx, ostrich, baboon and very occasionally  a lion or two.

The camp was first opened in 1995 and then upgraded in 2005, a firm favourite with us, the site consists of six sites generously situated under large camel-thorn trees, each with it’s own unique and private shower, flush toilet and small kitchen area with wash up facilities.  The facilities are creatively arranged in the landscape as not to be intrusive.  In fact when we first visited the camp we couldn’t even find the shower and toilet as it had been placed in the middle of a big bush, completely out of eyesight.   This is the perfect place to find shelter from a dust storm or to sit quietly and watch Grey Louries chattering eagerly in the branches above.  It is a place of dramatic scenery as you look out onto the unfenced desert.  The staff are helpful and friendly and wood bundles are available to buy for the quintessential braai.

If you plan to visit Puros, remember to come prepared, only a few basics are available in the close by town of Puros, including tinned goods, fresh potatoes, onions and a savanna or two.  But beyond this, Puros is a perfect place to spend a night or two.

From here we head to the Palmwag concession and we leave the Hoarusib behind and point towards Ampspoort, across the Ganias plains, on what could arguably be the worst road on this trip, corrugations set to rattle a few fillings loose.  Our plan was to reach the Hoanib river and then make our way through the Palmwag concession.  The Hoanib river is one of the 12 ephemeral seasonal rivers in the west of Namibia, and acts as a border between northern Damaraland and Kaokoland.  Measuring 270km’s in length and considering its very low population density it is considered a veritable oasis to the wildlife inhabiting this region.  The recently dry riverbed was teeming with large groups of wildlife, all finding respite from the intense day time heat reaching up to 42 degrees celsius.  The riverbed and its giant Ana trees and Leadwood offer large tracts of shade to Oryx, elephant, giraffe and a few lion prides.  The terrain is incredible, the valley being one of the last true wilderness areas in Namibia.  Canyons created in weathered stone by strong winds and water erosion bend and twist their way through the landscape, and it is almost inconceivable that during occasional floods the water levels can be several metres high and last for a few days.  Some years the water will make its way to the mouth in the Atlantic, whilst most of it will seep into the soil and become part of the subsurface aquifer.

Palmwag concession is a 550 000 hectare protected area, the landscape is vast and often very surreal in its appearance, created 125 million years ago by massive magma eruptions.  The large basalt fields of the Entendeka plateau are home to large poisonous euphorbias and rare aloes and the elusive and rare hooked-lipped rhinos(The black rhino).  There are a number of campsites, with no infrastructure, but the promise of solitude and tranquility, they are  Elephant song, Mudorib, Blackridge, Theun’s, Crowthers and the Kai-Ais campsite.  Just before the sun sets we find our little piece of paradise, watch the landscape transform into a photographers nirvana before quickly setting up camp and making a fire.  The following day is spent moving slowly through the open plains, tackling the ever changing track and keeping a very open eye for the elusive game,  but all we find are the spoor, someone circulated a memo in the animal kingdom stating that there are humans about, best you stay undercover.  The few Oryx and ostrich we see, flee in the opposite direction, and after many years of photographing and watching wild animals we speculate if poaching isn’t a possible cause, during this tough drought.

Arriving at the Palmwag lodge and campsite offer all the things you miss when you wild camp, a hot shower, a quick meal prepared by someone else and the promise of wifi to advise friends and family that you are alive and well and the chance to upload the truckload of videos and images.

 

This trip discovering the seven rivers has been about slowing the pace down, taking time to find those little remote hidden gems along the way, the wildlife, the ever elusive desert elephant, the local people, the generous and vast landscapes and those small side-tracks, those lesser traveled routes as opposed to the well-trodden transit routes that merely act as a link between one town and another.

The Doros !nawas region is a geological wonderland lying between the Huab and Ugab rivers, two of Namibia’s largest ephemeral river systems, the area offers spectacular views of a landscape that is both arid and beautiful at the same time.  The vegetation is scarce and low lying, interspersed with ancient welwitschias and Commiphoras

This is the land that was shaped and reshaped during the formation of the super-continent Gondwana, 550 million years ago.  Over time the forces of wind and water erosion have softened the sharp edges of the rocks and this area is known in geological circles, as the Damaraland rock.

Travelling through this landscape allows you to see ancient animal tracks as they criss cross the landscape, remote local settlements, rhino anti poaching units and the occasional rusted car wreck.

Conservancies such as this are a valuable way for local people to jointly manage the natural resources of the area and to protect, both the land, the people and its animals.

Off in the distance, beyond the immediate granite rocks, lies Brandberg, Namibia’s highest mountain.  We are heading towards the Ugab river and the Ugab river rhino camp where we are hoping to overnight.  To get there we will have to traverse the infamous “Divorce Pass”. 

Divorce pass is quite unlike anything we have seen, visually it is not dissimilar to Mordor from Lord of the Rings with its sharp and rugged rock faces, the track winds through steep rocky climbs and descents, offering slow going views of the Ugab river as it winds its way through the landscape, nothing short of dramatic and harsh.  It is also the perfect place to stop and enjoy the last of the canned sardines, sriracha sauce and thinly sliced red onions eaten directly out of the can.

From here the road slowly unwound down towards the river with Diane walking sections and guiding the way down.

The Ugab river which originates about halfway between Otavi and Outjo,  passes Outjo and skirts the Brandberg before finally meeting up with the Atlantic ocean about 200km’s north of Swakopmund.  This river with its large subterranean water reservoirs makes it a major Namibian river.  It stretches for 450km’s and provides water for the ever elusive desert elephant, zebra, giraffe and the largest population of black rhino in the world.  The formation of the Ugab Wilderness Area was created to protect the future of these rare creatures.

The river bed and the surrounding canyon are nothing short of dramatic, dwarfing the vehicle with its rugged outcrops, just the place for a photographic  stop.  The landscape is so reminiscent of a western that one almost expects the sheriff and his posse to come trotting along, instead it’s Christoph moving at brisk pace, slightly ashen.  Convinced that he had heard the sound of a lion awaken from his midday siesta, that half yawn, half growl that is enough to move anyone along.  Half in disbelief we drive on a few metres to discover clear spoor of a lion, and by all accounts, very fresh.  We decide to divide our attention between the incredible vistas and the spoor that seems to be emanating from the Ugab Rhino camp. We arrive at the camp hoping to spend the night and instead discover a completely deserted camp…nobody around, it’s as though people just upped and left at the last minute.  But, with the fresh lion spoor disappearing amongst the campsites we decide to leave.

It’s only after arriving the following day in Swakopmund that we discover that there were a couple of interactions between a lion, a mule, a dog, a couple camping and a father and son over the period of a few days.  It doesn’t bode well for the lion and instead specialists are brought in to understand this unusual behavior of one of the collared desert lions.  The said male lion was apparently sedated and moved to another area, where the chances of human interaction would be far more infrequent.  Apparently the behavior and brazenness of the lion were very unusual, what we take from this situation, is that it is important to remember that these are wild animals and that we are visitors in this area, it is important for people to remember not to taunt, feed or take unnecessary risks with these predators.

The town of Swakopmund is always an opportunity to catch up with our good friends, to share the details of our adventures, wolf down delicious fresh oysters and enjoy a glass of wine.  This time they surprised us with a galjoen braai and and the most spectacular sunset nestled amongst sand dunes on the outskirts of Swakopmund, the perfect ending to a few days of fun and reconnecting.

Situated 20km’s further south of Swakopmund lies the town of Walvisbay, the second largest coastal town in Namibia famous for it’s artificial Bird island, the central point for guano collection, Dune 7, the large harbour and the salt works.  The 4000 ha. salt field operations in Walvis Bay were first established in 1964 and it is the largest producer of solar sea salt in sub-Saharan Africa, processing 24 million tons of sea water to produce in excess of 700 000 tons of high quality salt per annum.

Not only do they produce salt, they are also a vital element in the conservation of birdlife in the area.  The salt pond system, together with the adjacent Walvis Bay estuary, have been identified as one of the important wetlands of Africa providing essential nutrients for a variety of wetland birds such as waders and the ever elegant flamingoes.

Beyond the birds and salt, Walvis bay salt refiners, produces delicious high quality oysters, making use of the flow of sea water into the salt evaporation ponds. These juicy delectable morsels feed on the plankton-rich sea water which allows them to reach market size within a few months.

It is an altogether surreal experience to drive through this area with a narrow, damp, single salt track dividing the ponds and lagoon.  Unnatural looking Pools of pink brine and salt crystal crusted dams stretch as far as the eye can see, offset by mountains of white salt.  A few metres further and large colonies of pink flamingoes wade through the shallows, whilst the lagoon on the opposite side of the track offers vegetation in a palette of plum and burgundy tones with wading birds scouring the shore.

It is the type of landscape that one would be hard pressed to imagine if you hadn’t had the opportunity to view it.

Unfortunately all good things come to an end, and if anyone can figure out why that is, please be sure to let us know.  To break up the long downhill dash to the South African border, we decided to spend a night in Spitzkoppe.  For the uninitiated, Spitzkoppe lies about 180km’s from Swakopmund.  The Spitzkoppe mountain range rises an impressive 1728 metres above the ground, creating a striking landmark on the landscape. To really appreciate this area, it is advisable to spend the minimum of one night, this way you can fully appreciate the contrasting light, the shadows and textures and the sheer scale of these inselbergs(island mountains).  The range is made of granite and dates back more than 700 milion years, the main peak is known as Gross spitzkoppe and the other peaks are klein spitzkoppe and Pondok mountain.

This is the place to be if you love hiking, rock climbing or you are looking for the most incredible photographic opportunities.

To watch the sunrise and sunset, in a hundred hues of pinks and orange, to hear the owls hoot and the barking geckos, an absolute balm for the soul.

 

Indian Scrambled Eggs recipe

serves 2

Scrambled egg spiced with coriander and cumin seed, make sure this delicious breakfast packs a flavourful punch and could be enjoyed as a tasty dinner solution with warm parathas and a fruity chutney on the side.

Ingredients

4 large free range eggs

a splash of fresh milk

salt and pepper to season

1 Tablespoon dried coriander seed

1 Tablespoon dried cumin seed

2 teaspoons black mustard seed

1 medium sized onion, peeled and sliced

1 Tablespoon ghee

2 garlic cloves, peeled and coarsely chopped

1 thumb size piece of fresh ginger, peeled and coarsely chopped

10 -15 fresh curry leaves

2 dried chillies, coarsely chopped

Fresh coriander to garnish

Some fresh fruit chutney to serve with the eggs

 

Method

Beat the eggs and milk, till well combined in a bowl, season with salt and pepper and set aside.

Heat a heavy bottomed pan over a low heat, add the coriander, cumin and mustard seed and dry roast until the spices are fragrant and the mustard seeds start popping.  Set aside and once cooled, lightly crush with a pestle and mortar or the back of a spoon.

Add the ghee to the pan, return to the low heat, once melted, toss in the sliced onion and fry till golden and glassy.  Taking care not to burn.

Add the crushed spices, garlic, ginger, curry leaves and chillies, and fry over a low heat for another 3 minutes, making sure to keep stirring.

Pour in the egg mixture and slowly fold through, remembering that you want the mixture to be creamy but cooked. Serve immediately, garnished with the fresh coriander and a little fruit chutney on the side.

Delicious!

Steak in a hand forged pan recipe

serves 2

 

I’m not sure that this even qualifies as a recipe, more a few pointers to achieve a delicious pan fried steak.

The criteria is simple, you will require a good quality steak, we like a sirloin steak that is about 3-4cm’s in thickness, with some fat on the side.

A good pan is also important, you need a heavy bottomed pan, and that is why we really like Conrad Hick’s hand forged pans, a true heirloom.

and lastly you need to ascertain exactly how you like your steak prepared and then stick to the cooking times precisely, to achieve that.

 

Ingredients

2 sirloin steaks

salt and freshly ground pepper to season

1 knob of butter

small bunch of fresh thyme or Rosemary

2 pressed skin on garlic cloves

 

Method

Place the pan over an open flame and allow to heat for 4-5 minutes.

Season the steaks with salt and pepper.

Add the butter to the pan and once it has melted add the steaks, the herbs and the garlic.

Using the time guide lines below, cook according to your preference.

I like to use a pair of tongs to lift the steaks and hold the fat side down in the butter and fry for a further 2 minutes or until you see the fat rendering.

Remove the steaks from the pan and allow them to rest for 5 minutes before pouring over the pan juices, herbs and garlic.

 

A simple guideline for timings: 

2 minutes, per side for rare

3-4 minutes, per side for medium to rare

 

Chickpea flour and banana pancake recipe

I am not sure that a recipe could be any easier than this one, and the nutty flavour of the chickpea flour creates the perfect marriage for the topping of sliced banana and honey.  The perfect gluten free sweet treat for all.

serves 2

Ingredients

1/2 cup of chickpea flour

generous pinch of salt

1 level Tbsp sugar

water, enough to blend the mixture into a smooth paste

small knob of butter

2 banana’s, peeled and sliced

half a lemon, to squeeze over the sliced banana

honey to serve

 

Method

Pour the chickpea flour, salt and sugar into a bowl, gradually add water to the dry ingredients, taking care to mix well and to rid the mixture of any lumps.  You are looking to achieve a pourable consistency, not to runny.  Cover the bowl and allow to rest for 15 minutes before making pancakes.

Place the sliced banana in another bowl and pour over the lemon juice to prevent them from discolouring. Set aside till the pancakes are ready.

Place your pan over a low heat and add a little butter, making sure that your pan is well coated, pour in some of the batter to create a pancake and cook slowly till the pancake is ready to be flipped over.  Cook the other side, top with the sliced bananas and a drizzle of honey.

Delish!