Having waited almost a year for this moment to arrive there was very little to stop us in our tracks. A 4 day 3 night slack packing hike with friends, in the wilderness, where the Leopard roams. Today this creature has almost mythical status. Without camera traps it would be impossible to know they inhabit these remote craggy ravines.

The Baviaanskloof is as remote as it gets and has the distinguished title of a world Heritage Site. It is is ecologically intact and has had relatively very little evidence of human intervention. The Baviaanskloof consists of no less than 7, of the 8 Biomes in South Africa, to make this one of the most ecologically diverse regions in the country. (Fynbos, Subtropical Thicket, Namakaroo, Succulent Karoo, Grassland, Savanna and Forest.)

Our group is a  mixed bag of  7 friends in various age groups – ranging from 20 something to the semi retired. Everyone comes to this walk with something to conquer. Either a personal quest to finish this hike or and opportunity to reset the mind and soul. Walking is a thinking mans pursuit…and to quote Friedrich Nietzsche book, ‘Twilight Of The Idols’

“All truly great thoughts are conceived by walking.”

We were warned – Good hydration and electrolytes are key, because if it heats up, we will cook like a rotisserie chicken. Snakes are also right up in the red zone. At the height of spring, all the reptiles are on the move again after the winter hiatus. The leader of the group at any one time has to be on snake watch. Puffys are passive hunters and often use the hiking trail as a trap for unsuspecting victims. For this reason we are given  satellite communication for any possible eventualities.

Day 1

We start and the group is concerned by Diane and my condition. We are about day 8 into Covid and the cocktail of meds are making us feel like Zombies. I am stammering around at the back somewhere and Diane has developed a “Baboon Bark”. We are not in good shape, but believe that our underlying fitness will allow us to keep up with the pack. After all we would have been hydrating a lot lying on our backs in any case. Why not bumble along and enjoy the scenery.

The first day was also the easiest day and should be a doddle which it was in the end. Initially a steep incline and then a gradual descent to our camp. Wow Beautiful!

The Isolation becomes immediately apparent. We realise that our minds have been saturated by the accumulated bombardment of the outside world. Our frame of reference has become so big that it becomes unbearable to process.

The isolation helps focus your mind on what is immediate and relevant to your own survival, a mental game that we have long forgotten.

One arrives at about midday at the first overnight hut and to our delight it was a well laid out camp in a beautiful setting. We each get our own cabin that sleeps 4. We realise that we are exhausted after the build up and have a siesta for a good two hours. I can’t remember when I did that last. It was so refreshing to wake up and feel energised at the end of the day.

Diane and I are on kitchen duty for the first night. We planned some lovely ribeye kebabs on the fire with the oh so delicious Mississippi Sauce, accompanied by the humble sweet potato. It was great and the evenings discussion started to migrate to the second leg.

We stayed up just long enough to see the stars come out and then hit the sack – An early start the next day.

Day 2

At first light we were serenaded by the twittering of the dawn chorus, which is an amazing collaboration of birds trying to outperform each other and it stops just before sunrise when it suddenly becomes eerily quiet. What a privilege to witness.

We start the day early, knowing that it is going to be hot.

At 7:15am we set off in the cool of the morning. It is a considerably longer day, with 18kms of ups and downs. It turned out to be a very arduous, and the heat was building up to the extent that Chris suffered dehydration. Day two should never be underestimated and in hindsight we thought it was one of the toughest.

It has to be said that it was beautiful, remote and ticked all the adventure spirit boxes – man vs nature.

Sun protection. A big brimmed hat cannot be over emphasised, water electrolytes and enough food to keep you going. A kikoi was also a piece of versatile kit for instant shade.

Shoes – don’t hike in new shoes and make sure your feet are secure to avoid chaffing.

Day two claimed its first victim, Chris decided to give his bones a rest on day 3, considered the toughest day, which was going to be three peaks and 23 kms.

We enjoyed a lovely Mexican dinner Chilli Sin Carne, care of Tania, Stefan and Mischak.

We sat in the rock arena at dusk listening to the night creatures come alive.

Day 3

7:15am – Early start now seems routine and today we hit the big one.

After a cold and invigorating shower I was ready to rock ‘n roll.  I felt like my health turned the corner and I was feeling on top of the world. It is amazing how infections can affect your mental state.

After the morning prep we top up our water bladders and pack our lunch and leave in the cool of the morning. Blue sky above and we mentally prepare ourselves for a long day. The day starts with a hill. Soon we reach the top, and in the distance we see the other two peaks. They are stretched out far from each other and and the path becomes invisible. We take it slow and take a break on each of the hills replenishing with electrolytes and mentally preparing to go down and then up again.

En route We stopped at one of the watering hole in a riverbed for lunch and to cool our feet in the fresh cool stream. It was while we were relaxing, that a Mongoose appeared as if to commune with us at our picnic. We gave it some treats and off we went. I was in the front on snake watch, when I heard two Cape Robins’ alarm call. I came over the rise and saw the mongoose. It all made sense the Cape Robins were chasing off the Mongoose. The warning calls continued with greater intensity and we eventually saw a Cape Cobra in the bush. It turns out that the Cape Robins and the Mongoose collaborated in chasing the snake away, almost clearing the path for us. Nobody was harmed except the Cobras ego looked a bit dented. It all happened so suddenly that we didn’t have a chance to photograph it.

The last section of the hike was beautiful, following the bottom of the river valley flanked by towering Kranze. We also encountered a troop of wild gravity defying baboons that scampered up the mountains like it was nothing. The last 5kms were mentally tough. At this point we were physically done and we had to dig deep to keep going. Just when it is all too much the hut appeared and the mood lifts.

That night Chris & Anton cooked up a feast of Dhal and Butternut Curry. It was delicious.  We were all a little bit tired  soon ended up in our bunks for another good nights rest.

Day 4

At this point we have accomplished a lot and prepare ourselves for the final leg of the hike. It is not a long walk at all (13kms), but it should not be underestimated since a good part of it is over a huge mountain. If you start too late the heat will fry you.

The route takes you from the river valley over the top and the views are spectacular. It also becomes apparent how the Biomes change as you rise and descend in the undulating landscape. Hiking in the Baviaankloof in spring is beautiful. It is a time of awakening.

We arrive back at base with a satisfied feeling of achievement having spent 4 Days in the wilderness. The base has a glorious swimming pool and it is the perfect end to the hike.

Overall it was an amazing hike and we would do it again.

When to Go

Spring and Autumn.

Winter will be cold especially if the showers run out of gas. We had two evenings of cold showers.

Summer will be scorching.

Some of our Snacks that really worked.

Dried fruit

Biltong of Droewors

Tuna Sachets and a boiled egg with Dashi powder.

Fresh fruit like and banana apples, pears and citrus.

Small punnets of Yoghurt

Nuts

…and a sweet treat like Chocolate. My personal favourite are Peanut M&Ms

Some people in the group packed sandwiches as well.

Salty chips can also lift the spirits.

 

Take along a first Aid kit sunblock

Remember to not leave any organic waste to attract baboons.